A Good Frame to “Renaissance”.
In terms of renaissancing a vintage bicycle, there are a few considerations that need to be addressed. Some “unique” frame characteristics can be an asset, others can be a real pain in the butt. The following outlines some general factors that influence a successful renaissance:
- Lugged steel / TIG welded steel – We recommend a steel frame for renaissancing simply because the inherent properties of steel allow for some “adjustment” (see next bullet point) whereas aluminum, carbon, titanium, etc. are more or less fixed in place. However, if your vintage Vitus 979 has the right dimensions for an upgraded drivetrain, then go for it.
- Frame spacing — Ensure that the rear width of your frame (between the drop outs) and the width of your drivetrain (over the locknuts) match. For the most part, cold setting / re-spacing / frame spacing / whatever you want to call it and dropout alignment is no big deal with the right tools. However, if the difference of your original spacing and target spacing is greater than 10mm, then proceed with caution. This change of spacing is doable, but keep in mind that chainline issues, wheel dishing, and drivetrain gremlins are a greater possibility.
- Fork Threading — Two issues arise here:
- Assuming that the steerer has already been cut, headset stack height needs to be taken into account. In other words, if your new headset is too tall, you may not have enough threads to safely install the fork.
- Threading varies among different manufacturers and countries. For example, French forks have a different thread pitch than current ISO standards. There are some ways around this issue (usually re-threading the fork is the most efficient), but it is better to recognize the potential problems up front.
- Brakes — Again, a few issues:
- Most classic road bikes were built around 27″ wheels. Modern road wheels have adapted the 700c standard. In terms of wheel diameter, the difference is only about 8mm. However, this often necessitates either a long reach caliper brake, or a “shorty” version of cantilevers.
- Recessed brake nuts are now the standard. This simply means that the fixing bolt is inside of the brake bridge or steerer fork for a cleaner appearance. However, vintage bikes were often equipped with nutted style brakes. Fortunately, there are a few ways to get around this problem.
- General frame condition – Assuming that the frame is the right size and type for your intended riding, any frame that is straight, free from dents, and has nothing more than surface rust is a good candidate. We like to think of the bike frame as a blank canvas. Sometimes we go for something a little flashy, other times an understated look is really satisfying.
Please note that the above points are intended to educate about some unforseen issues in upfitting a vintage bike. The issues / characteristics are not insurmountable, but it is better be aware of the potential problems before diving head-long into a renaissance.
Hopefully this quick overview will help to inspire people to see the potential in their classic bikes. While the original equipment may be long gone, a solid foundation (with a few considerations) is all that is needed to revitalize an old friend.
And if this information seems a little beyond your expertise, keep in mind that renaissancing vintage bikes is what we do. Please contact us and we’ll be happy to talk about breathing new life into your vintage bike.

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