This is the 6th installment of a Very Delayed part series (if Murphy’s Law has anything to do with it) on upgrading an old Schwinn Collegiate to a practical and pleasing daily bicycle for transportation.

As you may have guessed, we haven’t had much of a chance to focus on ole Murphy in the last two weeks. 

Here are the answers to some of your questions:

• No, we haven’t forgotten about it.
• Yes, we have the parts needed to “mock-up” the bike.  And yes, the parts have a little bit of dust on them.
• No, we aren’t holding out on you — we just haven’t “mocked” yet.
• Yes, we intended to finish this project.
• Yes, business is still brisk even though the traditional “season” is coming to a close.  And Yes, we are thankful for this.
• No, the bike is not for sale yet. (But keep in mind that the proceeds will go to a very worthy cause.)
• Yes, we are working on a “Build Package” that will help turn your classic 10-speed into a worthy City Bike.

So basically, we’ve been working fast and furious this week, but haven’t had quite enough time to attend to The Murphy.  But don’t worry, it hasn’t been forgotten.

This is the 5th installment of a 4 part series (if Murphy’s Law has anything to do with it) on upgrading an old Schwinn Collegiate to a practical and pleasing daily bicycle for transportation.

Now that we have introduced the project, taken in the Big Picture, guestimated the budget, and formulated some ideas for the intended result, now we get to go shopping. So here is the grocery list:

• Wheelset
• Drivetrain with multiple gears + cassette / cog
• Tires and tubes
• Fenders
• Saddle
• Chain
• Paint and decals
• Cables + housing, and other random little bits.

Wheels + Drivetrain = Upgrade

Knowing that the wheelset and drivetrain are the two most expensive elements in this build, it really makes sense to combine the two.  In other words, if we can get a new wheelset with an integrated multi-gear drivetrain … wait for it, wait for it … then an Internal Gear Hub makes perfect sense!  And fortunately for us, Soma has already produced the perfect specimen to fit the narrow 120mm rear spacing on the Collegiate:  The Soma Iggy Wheelset.  At around $250 for both wheels, a 3-speed hub, shifter, cog, and all in a classic silver finish, we just hit the jackpot!  (Well … maybe not the jackpot, but still a reasonable price to cover the two main upgrades for this project.)

Fenders + Tough Tires = Real World Commuting

Fenders and tires go together.  The general rule o’thumb is that the fender should be at least 12mm wider than the advertised width of the tire.  Apparently, our thumbs are a little more narrow than other people, because we sometimes try to squeeze 10mm wider fenders over tires.  While this usually give us the “look” we want, sometimes the annoyance of fender rub under acceleration or the sharp sound of a rock traveling through the inside of the fender is enough for us to second-guess our decision.

For tires, we want something in the realm of 700 x 32c to 700 x 35c for a daily rider.  The idea is to provide a comfortable yet reasonably low resistance ride.  Plus, most tires in this range are considerably more flat-resistant than their skinny tire cousins.  There are lots of good options …

• Panaracer Pasela w/ Tour Guard — $25 apiece
• or the Schwalbe Marathon — $30 apiece
• or the Continental Touring Plus — $35 apeace

… just to name three.

But as luck would have it, we have a used pair of 700 x 33.3 Jack Browns (the Blue edition) just laying around.  In the spirit of a budget build-up it simply makes more sense to use these homeless tires rather than buying new ones.  While this is a little bit of “cheating” on our part, it is hard to imagine that the average cyclist wouldn’t have a saddle, tires, or even whole wheelset that could be re-purposed for a build like this.  Likewise, we could debate the “somebody had to pay for it” line of thinking, but we like to think that good judgment in keeping useful parts is “priceless”. [Or, if you are keeping score at home, just add $60 to the total.]

While Honjo fenders are the indisputable champions of aluminum fenders, Velo Orange sells their own house brand for about 40% less than the cost of a Honjo set.  Alternatively, we could use some quality SKS Chromoplastic fenders for even a little bit less, but the metal fluted fenders just feel right for this bike.  For $48 we can use the 48mm polished and fluted VO fenders for plenty of tire clearance.  But low and behold, the ones that need a little polishing are actually on sale for $35.  Score!

Saddle

For a good city bike, we should get a proper city saddle.  In other words, I don’t envision too many out of the saddle town-line sprints on the Collegiate.  Basically, a sprung leather saddle would be ideal.  But at this point we haven’t left ourselves much room for ideal Brooks saddle.  Hmmm … maybe we just won’t sit down.  I wish we could have another “low and behold” moment …

And once again, our friends at Velo Orange come to the rescue.  As it happens, their Mod 8 saddle (which is both leather and sprung) is just within our grasp at $65.  The downside is this might stretch our budget just a little bit …

Everything Else

Basically, there are a couple of worn-out elements to the bike.  We need a new chain, new brake cables and housing, and new brake pads.  It breaks down like this:

• KMC singlespeed chain: $10
• Replacement brake cables and housing: $12
• New brake pads: $14

The Total

So far, we have racked up a grand total of $386.  That is a mere $11 (or 3%) over budget.  Not too bad … but I have a feeling that we may have overlooked something important like the paint scheme … but we’ll worry about that next time when we start to see how things take shape in The Murphy’s Law Project — Mock Build-up.  Once we have all the parts on-hand, we’ll see if this creature will go together as planned (cue maniacal laughter).

A Footnote

For quick pricing reference, we took the “average” price available online for the highlighted product.  Obviously, this overlooks sales tax and/or shipping.  But hopefully your local bike shop would be your first stop.  Even if they don’t have every item on-hand, they will probably make-up for it with backroom bargains like our used Jack Brown tires.

This is the 4th installment of an ∞ part series (if Murphy’s Law has anything to do with it) on upgrading an old Schwinn Collegiate to a practical and pleasing daily bicycle for transportation.

So … here is what we’ve got to work with:

• One stripped Schwinn Collegiate, with the exception of the “worthwhile” parts.
• A spendthrift budget of $375 as precisely calculated by the ((Option 1 + Option B) / 2) x Whoa There Moneybags Ratio x Didn’t See That Coming Expense Factor presented in the previous entry … The Murphy’s Law Project — Part $
• A few random used and cast-off parts that are probably typical of the average bike enthusiast’s stash.
• Some good quality shop tools and some experience with both commuter bikes and vintage bikes.
• A few good ideas.

And really, the focus of this entry is to examine the source of those ideas … what those fancy Industrial Artist types might call the “design phase.”

For the most part, building-up a custom bicycle is more of an art form than a step-by-step erector set.  Things change, parts are no longer / suddenly become available, components have [compatibility] issues, a good concept doesn’t play out, and small suggestion sparks a new insight … you get the idea.  The whole key to this art form is the ability to go with it.  While there is more direct decision making than pure Zen, allowing the project to take its own unique shape is what separates a luvstom bicycle (which is a contraction of “love” and “custom”) from one that is an obvious amalgamation of disjointed pieces.  In a word … Ohhmmmmm.

Anyway, here are some of the sources of inspiration from this project:

1. The long rake to the front fork would give a 700c wheel an almost “chopper” look.  Well, not like a real chopper, but it would hint at something a little bit unique.
2. Black looks good with everything … but a little more color would be a step in the right direction.  As discussed previously, it looks like our paint selection will be limited to what comes out of a can, but that might work to our advantage.  And since we will need to primer the bike anyway … a flat Rat Rod look might be just the ticket.  And if it doesn’t work, well the frame is already primed.  Perfect!
3. A singlespeed drivetrain is cost effective for daily transportation, but we don’t want to limit the versatility of the bike.  After all, it is meant to be ridden first and act as a fashion accessory second.  A simple internally geared 3-speed is a good compromise for cycling for transportation.  Plus, as long as we keep our wits about us, this will help keep the overall drivetrain cost low.
4. The “Collegiate” moniker on the downtube has always reminded us of the classic “College” image of John Belushi in National Lampoon’s Animal House.
5. What other “vintage” qualities should be retained? Obviously, the swept back bars and the chainguard.  The cranks definitely say “Schwinn” (as the hand grips do literally).  Fenders will be a must for real transportation riding, but the jury is out on the addition of a rack.

So with these initial design ideas at the front of our mind, and the $375 budget at the back of our wallet, the next installment will cover the selection of parts (and the inherent compromises) which will take a few baby steps towards completing this project … The Murphy’s Law Project — Part Parts.

And by the way, no sign of Murphy just yet, but surely he can’t be too far away.

This is the 3rd installment of a $375 series (if Murphy’s Law has anything to do with it) on upgrading an old Schwinn Collegiate to a practical and pleasing daily bicycle for transportation.

In terms of reaching a realistic budget, there are two separate (yet diverging) starting points:

1. Option 1: How much money should I spend on a mostly-for-fun commuter / recreation bike?
   • Translation: “How much money can I scrounge together for another toy?”
2. Option B: How much would a comparable (but more boring) mostly-for-fun new commuter / recreation bike cost?
   • Translation: “What is the price of a new commuter bike that is not totally lame?”

And a third larger point (which is outside the bounds of this project):

• How much money will I save if I use a bike for errands in place of my car on a regular basis?
  • Translation 1: “What is the dollar value of the pleasure from riding my bike?”
  • Translation 2: “How many dollars should I deduct for every Redneck that honks and yells out the window?”

So starting with Option 1:

Thankfully, we’ve started with a free bike.  However, the wheels and drivetrain are basically of no use to us.  Their repair cost is about equal to the replacement cost, so might as well go for the new (and more stylish) route.   Likewise, the saddle, brake pads, cables + housing, and other small bits simply need to go.

Some quick (highly speculative) estimates:

• New wheelset: $120 – $250
• New derailleur and shifter: $25 – $60
• New cassette and chain: $40 – $65
• New tires and tubes: $40 – $75
• New fenders: $25 – $50
• New saddle: $25 – $85 (’cause that Serfas saddle has got to go!)
• New miscellaneous other bits: $25 – $50
• New paint & decals: $20 – $300 (since we need to make this one “ours”.)

By this very rough estimation, we are looking anywhere from $300 – $635 (not including the high-end paint job).

And trying out Option B:

A brand new bike sure is nice.  While it doesn’t exactly have the new car smell, selecting and sizing a new bike is a pretty rewarding process.  Even if it takes a little time, and a few trips to the store coupled with some searching on the wwwInterweb, it is rare that a thoughtfully selected bike doesn’t get a good amount of use.

A few good commuter bikes (or bikes that could be used for that purpose) in no particular order:

• Breezer Freedom – $550
• Giant FCR 3 – $600
• Novara Buzz V – $450
• Raleigh Roadster – $500

And we could add another half-dozen bikes … but the purpose is just to get an estimate of a realistic price for an entry-level commuter bike that won’t get you completely ridiculed by Bike Snob NYC.  The average price is somewhere around $525.

So … doing some basic calculations based on the Option 1 + Option B divided by 2 method, we get our magic overall budget of $412.50. Now, reducing the total by the “I don’t want to go too overboard” factor of 0.77, we get a more bearable estimate of $317.63.  Then considering every project ever conceived always goes over budget, we will compensate with a 1.15 multiplier to get a grand total of $365.26.  Finally, knowing that we have an extra $10 tucked away in the glove compartment, we reach the grand master final total of $375.00.  Simple really.

That means that the next riveting segment of this project is to figure out exactly what to do with the $375 wad of cash.  Pinch pennys with bargain basement closeouts?  Scour eBay until the small hours of the night?  Blow the whole stash on flashy wheels?  You’ll see what we have in mind when we bring you the next entry: The Murphy’s Law Project — Part D[esign].

[Editor's Note:  All kidding aside, this segment is really meant to produce a general guestimate of the overall cost of this project ... sure you could buy everything online from the "Discount Direct Warehouse Fort", or from your crazy cousin Tony who sells parts from the back of his '86 Lincoln, or pick through the discards at your local community bike coop ... but we are looking for a good quality geared bikes with fenders and the ability to ride at will.  At the heart of it, we hope that you will consider first buying from the friendly folks at your local bike shop.]

This is the 2nd installment of a 212 part series (if Murphy’s Law has anything to do with it) on upgrading an old Schwinn Collegiate to a practical and pleasing daily bicycle for transportation.

First things first. Before we get into the hands-on deconstruction, we need to take a bird’s eye view of the project and the overall objectives that we want to achieve.  We need to ask ourselves the important questions like, “Self, do we really need another bicycle?” (Ourself laughs at the obvious futility of this question.)  In other words, before any actual work begins, we need to make sure that our wants & needs meet our cans & haves.

Objective 1: A Good Rideable Bike
As you may have read in our Introduction to Murphy’s Law Project, this Schwinn Collegiate barely escaped the sharp teeth of the local crusher. We dashed in at the last second (not unlike the handsome hero on white horseback) and saved this neglected beauty. In reality, maybe we need to check our prescription:

• The frame of the bike is in pretty good shape.  Although there is some surface rust (and the paint is pretty faded), the foundation of the bike appears to be pretty solid.  We’ll find out more when we start taking things apart, but initially things are positive.
• There is a goodly amount of surface rust on the components and accessories … and by “goodly” we mean not good.  The fender (notice that word is not plural) is beyond repair, but the stem, cranks, and kickstand might be worth saving.  None of the parts will really shine again without re-chroming or serious polishing, but we can work that into the overall aesthetics of the bike.
• The wheel (again, not plural) and the drivetrain are pretty tired and not worth trying to resurrect.  However, the headset and bottom bracket seem to be in surprisingly good shape.  Basically, the fundamentals are in place.

Objective 2: Not to Break the Bank

We could simply throw money at this project and make a gold-plated, diamond encrusted piece of wall art (oh wait, that has already been done).  But instead, we want a realistic project that most cyclists can afford and appreciate.  In terms of setting a projected budget (which we will cover in more depth in the next segment of this series) we made a quick survey of comparable used and new bikes.  This gives a realistic scope of $200 to about $450 for a good dependable bike for transportation.

Objective 3: Have Fun with Murphy

It goes without saying that if this project is not enjoyable, then we are better served just buying a complete, ready-to-ride bike.  But as many a wise man has quipped, it is not the destination but the journey itself.  To keep the positive in perspective, here are a few reminders:

• Keep a realistic timeline. Like you, we are really just too busy to add another thing to the ever lengthening To-Do list.  However, if we can parse the tasks into realistic chunks, we can make this happen without upsetting the apple cart.  Simply put, there is no deadline.
• “Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.” As with any “specialty” project, there will be some unexpected speed bumps along the way that we simply cannot avoid.  But as long as we are not caught off-guard by these minor setbacks, then we will not be bested by Murphy’s Law.
• There is no spoon.

Alright … in the next installment we’ll address the dreaded Budget (with a capital “B”.)

More Photos of the Murphy’s Law Project →

We are proud to announce the 1st of a 147 part series (if Murphy’s Law has anything to do with it) on upgrading an old Schwinn Collegiate to a practical and pleasing daily bicycle for transportation.

When it comes to building and outfitting commuter bikes, we realize two important things:

1. Not everyone has the means to purchase their “dream bike” from Renaissance Bicycles.
2. Not everyone has the experience or knowledge to upgrade their old beater bike into something that can be useful as everyday transportation.

So we have created this little project to address point number 2.  (As for point number 1, please consult your financial advisor … and ask him / her for a personal loan.  They should recognize the value of a healthy and happy customer.)

Anyway, the title of the project is Murphy’s Law, as in “Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.”  Obviously, this is a little tongue-n-cheek, but it serves as a gentle reminder that that hiccups during a unique project are the norm, not the exception.  We would like to think as “professionals” we could take on any bicycle project and have it knocked-out without delay.  Realistically, there are always new challenges and obstacles to overcome, no matter how many times we build up a Betty Foy.

This story, like any good story, begins with the underdog. In this case, it is a vintage Schwinn Collegiate headed to the scrap pile.  We intercepted it before it made it all the way into the dumpster, and we were glad to get a project bike for the sum of $0.  Of course, there are a few issues to deal with (it wasn’t headed to the landfill for no reason), but there should be (remembering the previous paragraph) a pretty straight path towards making this bike road-worthy once again.

View the Murphy’s Law photo gallery →

Over the next few days, weeks, months (again as dictated by Murphy’s Law) we will chronicle our project.  Here are some of our basic goals / intentions:

• Be realistic about this project from a consumer perspective.  Sure, we could build a sub 20lbs. mountain bike for $12,000 instead, but it seems to make more sense to lose 20lbs. by riding this free bike.
• Provide examples of best practices for such a project. In other words, we would like to use our experience to help guide others so that they can lessen the Murphy Effect as much as possible.  In some sense, we can afford to make mistakes more than the average home mechanic.
• Document some of the technical challenges faced in upgrading an older bike, but without getting too bogged down in the details.  In other words, we want to show the selection and installation of a new chain, wheelset, shifter, etc. without without getting too “How-To”.
• Show both the challenges and rewards in trying something a little unusual. We don’t take ourselves too seriously … we just feel fortunate to classify such a project as “Work”.
• And when everything is said and done, we would like to find a deserving home for this project by donating the proceeds from this endeavor to a worthwhile cause.

So hang-on as we head down the bicycle path less traveled.  We are sure that our reward will be well worth the effort, we just need to make the effort.

And if you have any comments, questions, or cuss words along the way, feel free to make use of the Comments section of the Shop Talk blog.

One of the unique qualities of our shop is the in-house photo studio.  While it usually doubles as a storage area, we try to set aside some time to take a few photos of our “end” products.  Here is a quick guide to our latest additions:

• Gunther’s Soma Speedster — Spec’d for commuting, recreational rides, and an occasional charity event, Gunther’s Speedster is one smooth machine.  Bar-end shifters, durable Pasela tires, and Rivendell Grip Kings makei it a perfect all-rounder.  Fenders and lights to be added very soon.
• Stephen’s Schwinn Prelude Singlespeed — Stephen knew what he was after … an everday vintage steel ride converted to the simplicity of a single speed drivetrain.  We knew what he wanted … affordable yet keep the vintage lugged steel look.  So we found the bike, ordered up the parts, and everything came together perfectly.
• Bryan’s Rivendell Quickbeam — Sometimes we indulge a little.  Knowing this is the last of legendary Rivendell Quickbeams, we really had no choice but to get one for ourselves.

Obviously, these “Glamour Shots” are another little perk of buying a bike from Renaissance Bicycles.  You can own it, love it, and show pictures to your friends.

So check back in the Gallery often … we are always photographing and displaying our custom builds and unique bikes.  And if you have questions about how we do our photo magic, just contact us and we’ll gladly divuldge our secrets.

With the recent Spring rush around the Shop, we spend most of our time working on custom built bikes ordered by customers.  However, we still have some of our own projects in the works.

Here is what is coming down the pipeline at Renaissance Bicycles:

• 1962 Legnano Gran Premio — Complete repaint with a “modern” interpretation of the original paint scheme.  Very classic-esqe bike with leather, lots of chrome, and all new Shimano Ultegra components.
• 1983 Specialized Stumpjumper –  Rigid lugged steel MTB repainted with the original color scheme and decals.  Upfitted with modern SRAM mountain drivetrain and all FSA goodies.  Intended to be a 650b bike … but final assembly will make that decision.
• 1983 Specialized Allez — Great lugged steel road bike.  Repainted and styled ala Renaissance Bicycles; high gloss white with yellow accents.  Refurbished original [in]famous Shimano 105 Biopace drivetrain.
• Soma-fied Soma B-side build-up — A complete 650b Soma B-Side mountain bike with almost all of the components and accessories coming from Soma.
• 1970′s Atala City Bike — Just a clean-and-polish job for a simple and stylish city bike.  A perfect vintage town bike for the retro-aficionado.

And we have a few other projects waiting in the wings, but they are a little too far off the radar to warant comment at the moment.

So yes, we promise to update the website with these bikes as they come available.  We also have a few other bikes waiting in the “photo queue” that should make their debute in the next week or two.  But if we stay too busy with customer orders to devote our full attention to the projects listed above, we won’t complain.

Thanks again for keeping us busy.

One of the most valuable contributions Renaissance Bicycles (or any local bike shop) can provide a community is expertise. We are extending the following invitation to all of you:

Renaissance Bicycles is please to announce our new BYOP (Bring Your Own Parts) Program:

Ready to get your hands dirty working on your own bike, but need a little guidance and support (and maybe a few specialty tools) to complete the job?  Now you can bring your bike / parts / accessories / do-dads with you to the Renaissance Bicycles workshop and get your Work On. Heck, you don’t even need to have a cool vintage bike.

• We’ll give you one-on-one guided instruction regarding anything and everything from chain lubrication to headtube reaming.
• You’ll have access to our professional set of tools.
• You’ll receive genuine hands-on experience.  You will do the work — not look over our shoulder.  As an added bonus, you’ll get lots of grease under your fingernails … free of charge!
• If you need parts, we’ll help make sure everything is kosher and ready for your repair or assembly.

We realize that each customer’s needs and expectations are different.  We also realize that assembling a retro fixie and a full-on touring bike don’t warrant the same investment in time.  So please contact us and we’ll be happy to quote you a reasonable price depending on your needs, materials, and level of expertise.

“What we have to learn to do, we learn by doing.” — Aristotle

In terms of renaissancing a vintage bicycle, there are a few considerations that need to be addressed.  Some “unique” frame characteristics can be an asset, others can be a real pain in the butt.  The following outlines some general factors that influence a successful renaissance:

• Lugged steel / TIG welded steel – We recommend a steel frame for renaissancing simply because the inherent properties of steel allow for some “adjustment” (see next bullet point) whereas aluminum, carbon, titanium, etc. are more or less fixed in place.  However, if your vintage Vitus 979 has the right dimensions for an upgraded drivetrain, then go for it.
• Frame spacing — Ensure that the rear width of your frame (between the drop outs) and the width of your drivetrain (over the locknuts) match.  For the most part, cold setting / re-spacing / frame spacing  / whatever you want to call it and dropout alignment is no big deal with the right tools.  However, if the difference of your original spacing and target spacing is greater than 10mm, then proceed with caution.  This change of spacing is doable, but keep in mind that chainline issues, wheel dishing, and drivetrain gremlins are a greater possibility.
• Fork Threading — Two issues arise here:

1. Assuming that the steerer has already been cut, headset stack height needs to be taken into account.  In other words, if your new headset is too tall, you may not have enough threads to safely install the fork.
2. Threading varies among different manufacturers and countries.  For example, French forks have a different thread pitch than current ISO standards.  There are some ways around this issue (usually re-threading the fork is the most efficient), but it is better to recognize the potential problems up front.

• Brakes — Again, a few issues:

1. Most classic road bikes were built around 27″ wheels.  Modern road wheels have adapted the 700c standard.  In terms of wheel diameter, the difference is only about 8mm.  However, this often necessitates either a long reach caliper brake, or a “shorty” version of cantilevers.
2. Recessed brake nuts are now the standard.  This simply means that the fixing bolt is inside of the brake bridge or steerer fork for a cleaner appearance.  However, vintage bikes were often equipped with nutted style brakes.  Fortunately, there are a few ways to get around this problem.

• General frame condition –  Assuming that the frame is the right size and type for your intended riding, any frame that is straight, free from dents, and has nothing more than surface rust is a good candidate.  We like to think of the bike frame as a blank canvas.  Sometimes we go for something a little flashy, other times an understated look is really satisfying.

Please note that the above points are intended to educate about some unforseen issues in upfitting a vintage bike.  The issues / characteristics are not insurmountable, but it is better be aware of the potential problems before diving head-long into a renaissance.

Hopefully this quick overview will help to inspire people to see the potential in their classic bikes.  While the original equipment may be long gone, a solid foundation (with a few considerations) is all that is needed to revitalize an old friend.

And if this information seems a little beyond your expertise, keep in mind that renaissancing vintage bikes is what we do.  Please contact us and we’ll be happy to talk about breathing new life into your vintage bike.